Grown by the Aztecs and then all but eliminated in the Spanish conquest, the ancient crop amaranth may become the next quinoa. Advocates hope amaranth can help Mexicans eat healthier, better connect to their roots, and lessen their impact on the environment. But will people eat it?

Amaranth is a broad-leafed, bushy plant that grows about six feet (1.8 meters) tall. It produces a brightly colored flower that can contain up to 60,000 seeds. The seeds are nutritious and can be made into a flour. Not a true grain, amaranth is often called a pseudocereal, like its relative quinoa. Both plants belong to a large family that also includes beets, chard, spinach, and lots of weeds.

There are around 60 different species of amaranth, and a few of them are native to Mesoamerica. For the last decade, the Oaxaca-based advocacy group Puente a la Salud Comunitaria (Bridge to Community Health) has been working to promote the plant’s virtues.

Pete Noll, the group’s executive director, argues that his work couldn’t come at a more important time. In July, the United Nations announced that Mexico had overtaken the United States as the world’s most obese country. According to the report, 32.8 percent of Mexican adults are obese, compared with 31.8 percent of American adults.

«Obesity is a devastating problem in Mexico,» Noll said. «Amaranth may be part of the solution. It is a whole, healthy food that can be produced locally, and it may create the possibility of change.»

Noll pointed to widespread availability of fast food, urbanization, lack of physical activity, and heavy advertising of junk foods as culprits in the obesity epidemic. As evidence of the devastating effects, he noted a recent media report about a 13-year-old Mexican boy who died of a heart attack.

At the same time, many people in Mexico still struggle with hunger. Some 10,000 children die from malnutrition in the country each year, Noll noted. «These issues are linked: Childhood malnutrition makes people seven to eight times more likely to be overweight or obese as adults,» he said.

«Oaxaca has a cuisine that is known worldwide, but it also has food deserts,» Noll added, referring to areas where it is difficult for consumers to find fresh, healthy foods.